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“Elsa Peretti in a ‘Bunny’ costume by Halston” (1975), Helmut Newton

“Elsa Peretti in a ‘Bunny’ costume by Halston” (1975), Helmut Newton

GRACIELA S. SILVA |

Las calles de Roma no permiten que nadie lo olvide, uno de los más grandes fotógrafos del desnudo expone en la ciudad. Helmut Newton (1920-2004) exhibe en una de las ciudades más conservadoras de Europa una muestra que lleva el nombre de tres de sus libros publicados: Mujeres blancas, noches sin sueño, grandes desnudos, instalada desde el mes de marzo en el Palazzo delle Exposizioni.

“Elsa Peretti in a ‘Bunny’ costume by Halston” (1975) es parte de la primera serie. Su gran tamaño nos invita a acercarnos a mirar los detalles, y alejarnos para observarla en su completa majestuosidad. Es del tiempo en que Newton comienza a experimentar con imágenes eróticas que lleva a escenarios todavía poco usuales, como la publicidad. La industria de la moda encuentra en sus retratos una fórmula que además de atractiva, muestra un meticuloso cuidado de la estética.

En la exposición puede apreciarse la evolución de su estilo, el cual comienza con imágenes en las que los elementos de provocación empiezan a ganar lugar en el encuadre de modo discreto, llega hasta los desnudos posteriores en los que la totalidad del encuadre gira en torno a los cuerpos.

El retrato realizado a Elsa Peretti nos muestra a una mujer que posa en una azotea citadina, una peculiar máscara cubre su rostro que se inclina levemente hacia atrás. Pareciera que la intención principal del encuadre es alargar el cuerpo de la modelo: el vestuario que llega justamente en donde inician sus piernas, los zapatos de tacón y la sombra alargada del lado derecho nos permiten imaginarla aún más alta de lo que es. Aunque de frente las piernas se juntan en una sola, en la sombra las siluetas se dividen.

Desde la primera mirada, la imagen nos ofrece la certeza de que no proviene de una situación espontánea, sino que es producto de una planeación previa, pues el vestuario no se relaciona con el contexto de modo natural. En este punto encontramos una característica intrínseca a la fotografía de moda, su evidente planificación.

El contraste, sin embargo, no sólo se encuentra en escenario y vestimenta, sino que también está presente en la fuerza de los tonos, entre los cuales predominan con gran fuerza los oscuros. Aun cuando la fotografía nos da indicios de haberse tomado en el día, la dirección de la cámara respecto al sol permite la captura de una gran cantidad de sombras sobre la modelo y, especialmente, en el edificio que se encuentra hasta el fondo.

El sol aparece como la única fuente de iluminación, la dureza de las sombras nos da pauta para pensar que fue realizada cerca del mediodía. El tiempo que falta o ha pasado después de su posición cenital, permite que el sol esté del lado izquierdo del encuadre, con lo cual produce esa luminosidad tan peculiar sobre los rascacielos, iluminándalos sólo de frente a él y creando una tenue oscuridad en el costado.

Realizada en Nueva York —como buena parte de su obra—, Helmut Newton captura también la esencia cosmopolita de la urbe. La moda en contraste con los rascacielos, la belleza de la modelo en armonía con la pulcritud de los edicios que la anteceden. Ambos se miran desde la altura, ajenos al bullicio y al gran movimiento de las calles que están bajo la escena. Aun así, modelo y fotógrafo alcanzan a escuchar el eco de los múltiples sonidos que no les permite olvidar dónde están situados.

| RMM | GSS | Luz negra | @Versalisima |

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