Por las calles de Morelia [FICM 2013]

Fotografía por Mireille Del Valle

Fotografía por Mireille Del Valle

GONZALO TRINIDAD VALTIERRA | ENVIADO

Morelia, Mich.- Dos grandes lagos moribundos preceden a Morelia. Antigua ciudad de Valladolid. Luego las torres de las iglesias y la catedral despuntan como espigas de trigo bajo el sol. Entonces la ciudad aparece frente a los ojos en un gran valle.

El cielo es azul cobalto. Pero los nubarrones anuncian la lluvia. En las calles los colores de la vieja Valladolid se descubren. Y los pendones del FICM anuncian el festival. Mientras tanto me instalo en un hotel maloliente donde, me dicen, las prostitutas anidan esperanzas por la noche. No todos pueden hospedarse en los hoteles lujosos del centro. Prefiero mi cuarto que es como una celda hedionda.

Los lagos han desaparecido, sustituidos por la niebla y la cantera rosa de los altos edificios coloniales. Quisiera poder decir que mi cuarto tiene una ventana que da a la calle y que, desde ahí, puedo ver el trajín de los turistas y los periodistas que se devoran a sí mismos por la nota, por la fotografía o la declaración que no dice mucho pero que llena planas.

Declaraciones que son respuestas a preguntas incoherentes. Algunas de una periodista que grazna al mismo tiempo que la incontinencia emocional le impide pensar con claridad. Obligándola a dar pequeños saltos porque frente a ella está Alfonso Cuarón o Robert Rodriguez. (Por cierto, encontraré a la misma mujer en cada evento al que vaya.)

El primer día el glamour enerva la ciudad. Los ojos de las cámaras se concentran en unas cuantas personas. Me estoy bebiendo una cerveza y la lluvia, la oportuna lluvia me arruina la primera conferencia de prensa en la Biblioteca Pública. En ese recinto me enfrentaré por primera vez a la periodista enloquecida. “Eres un genio”, grita al ver a Cuarón, cual groupie.

Lo que más haré será beber cerveza. Ver películas a costa de mi cartera. Comer lo que sea que ofrezcan en la sala de prensa. Y escribir cuartillas de —incoherentes— comentarios sobre los filmes. Una que otra declaración fugaz. Todo en ese orden.

Voy por otra cerveza. Ese primer día todo está saturado. No hay boletos a la venta. Un moreliano decepcionado me comenta que comenzaron a vender los boletos antes de inaugurar el festival. No sé si es cierto.

Como no he podido entrar a la función me voy a dar un paseo. Puede que en el camino se me ocurra algo para escribir.

La niebla se le pega a la cantera que ahora parece pudriese con el aire frío. Las campanas inundan la ciudad con su canto de sirenas. Me gusta el silencio del Jardín de las rosas. Llueve. Llueve. Morelia me recibe no una, sino dos veces ya con lluvia.

El manco de Lepanto está en su trono de hierro. Las gotas de lluvia que corren como lágrimas me alteran. ¿Por qué llora Cervantes? Tal vez porque tanta gente le arruina la ciudad. Sólo serán unos días. Luego me pierdo en la niebla y la noche.

¿Dónde están las prostitutas del hotel? ¿Dónde cuando la sola visión de esas mujeres puede devolverle a uno la esperanza de la noche y el nacer de un otro día? Mañana conseguiré boletos para ver una película por lo menos. Me repito eso hasta que me llega el sueño.

Mi estancia en el festival no agarra color. No se concreta. A los periodistas se les dan dos boletos por día para asistir a las funciones. Dos boletos, no más. El resto corre por su cuenta, al menos en mi caso. Mirar cine es inversamente proporcional al consumo de cerveza.

Parece que el éxito ha enfermado al festival. ¿Dónde quedó la humildad de invitar al público abiertamente? ¿Y la virtud de la gratuidad que todo lo colma de un aura benévola? ¿Qué pasó con esa idea de crear nuevos públicos que consuman un cine distinto? Al garete, todo.

Es una lástima que la mayor parte de las funciones estén programadas en salas de Cinépolis. Como si a Morelia le hicieran falta auditorios. Una ciudad que tiene el conservatorio más antiguo de este continente.

Agotado

Agotado es la palabra que más veces escucharé en el día. Pero se compensa por esa forma tan digna que tienen los morelianos para pedir algo. “Ocupo que me consigas unos boletos para la función tal”. Se llena de música el aire al escucharlos. ¿Será por eso que el conservatorio de Las Rosas se encuentra en Morelia? Cada vez que camino cerca de una ventana llega a os oídos alguna melodía. Qué caja de sonidos tan compleja.

Mi cuarto de hotel apesta aún más de noche: cuando el hartazgo de todo el día se asienta como un limo en el alma. Se borran los grandes lagos de mi mente. Tal vez porque se están secando. O porque me estoy durmiendo. Las prostitutas cantan esta noche en su palacio.

La sala de prensa tiene comida. Punto para el festival. Los adictos a la cafeína se apelmazan junto a la mesa. Los que lo son a la nicotina aspiran humo afuera de la sala.

Es un día nublado. Pienso en las películas que he visto. A este paso me regreso caminando a la ciudad. A fuerza de buscar el ahorro como a un conejo blanco, me saco del sombrero la idea de salvar mi participación dirigiéndome a las sedes gratuitas. Ahí saldré bien librado. Y con el dinero que ahorraré me regreso en camión. Con suerte el próximo año me acredita el festival y hasta el hotel me pagan. Extrañaré el olor y a las prostitutas.

RMM | GT | @Seliztli |

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