Muerte cultural en Haití: culpar a Dios

haitiPrevio al año 2000, un loco acribillaba a los pasajeros de los camiones de Distrito Federal amenazándolos con terremotos, pestes y hambre. Muchos reían al sentir como la biblia del demente les apuntaba directo al cráneo.

Pero en Haití la profecía no fue tan graciosa.

El 12 de enero del 2010 el diablo los visitó en forma de un terremoto de 7.3 grados Richter. Mató a 230 mil personas. Entre ellas al rapero Shacan Lord y al escritor Georges Anglade. El cineasta estadounidense Dan Wooley y el camarógrafo peruano Luis Neyra fueron rescatados de milagro. Los monumentos artísticos sucumbieron como papel al viento.

Pero en la isla siempre ha olido a azufre y muerte. Su infierno han sido Francia, EU, las dictaduras y la pobreza. Ahí la tierra no sólo sirve para orinar, sino que es harina con la cual se fabrican panes crudos que engañan al hambre.

En el apocalipsis las palabras de los locos son lo único que salva. Por eso cientos de fieles se congregaron a orar en la Catedral derrumbada de Puerto Príncipe.

“Señor, ten misericordia de nosotros y perdona nuestros pecados”

¿Y quién lo perdonará a él?

No darás contra tu prójimo falso testimonio

Ignora la nueva sacudida y prepara los pinceles. Dime que eres un famoso artista.

Traza edificios destruidos con cruces católicas en pie, a gente aterrada corriendo entre varillas y escombros, a reos fugándose como hormigas, a cientos de policías y ambulancias, a religiosos secuestrando niños, a cadáveres desmembrados con moscas nadando en coágulos de sangre y a ladrones ardiendo en fuego.

No olvides a los niños bañados en tierra y lágrimas frente a sus madres con el cráneo partido, a dos jóvenes luchando por  comida que cae desde helicópteros, a delincuentes escapando de cárceles ni, tampoco, a cinco sujetos robando un supermercado antes de ser baleados por la justicia.

Miénteme. Hazme creer que al encender el televisor no veré esto. Que permanece sólo en tu obra. Que nadie escuchará lamentos ni percibirá el olor a carne putrefacta.

No tendrás dioses ajenos delante de mí

Vino a la isla nomás para morirse. Bien reza el dicho: El Todopoderoso no juega a los dados.

Dicen que los escritores son dioses en sus historias. Que los geógrafos conocen las entrañas de la tierra bendita. Y que los sociólogos saben cómo se comportan los hijos del Magnífico. Pero todo es vano cuando estás enterrado entre toneladas de fierro y escombros.

“El haitiano-canadiense Georges Anglade, escritor, sociólogo y geógrafo, quien fue asesor y ministro de los presidentes Jean-Bertrand Aristide y René Préval, murió junto con su esposa Mireille, los dos de 65 años, por el sismo que castigó a Haití”, se lee en el portal de la agencia Notimex.

Al científico le fue imposible predecir su destino. Porque la ciencia no es Dios y no hay más ciencia que la del Altísimo. Retarlo es peligroso.

Más le hubiese valido permanecer en su exilio en Canadá. Pero el infierno lo llamó al encuentro literario “Viajeros sorprendentes”.

Dicen que en el último suspiro siempre hay lugar para las glorias.

“El segundo galardonado con una mención de honor es el profesor Georges Anglade”, anuncia Federico Mayor, director de la UNESCO, con motivo de la entrega del Premio José Martí 1999.

Pero todo se va al demonio a la hora de morir.

No te harás imágenes de las cosas que están arriba de los cielos ni debajo de la tierra

El hombre venera imágenes aún antes de las cuevas de Altamira. Lo mismo ha sucedido con Juan Pablo Segundo o Hitler, que con las esculturas de Gunther von Hagens, las pinturas de Francis Bacon o las instalaciones de Teresa Margolles.

Pero el Divino es celoso y terrible. “Esto que veis, llegarán días en que no quedará piedra sobre piedra que no sea destruida.”

En Puerto Príncipe, el Palacio Presidencial padeció su ira. Los vitrales y murales de la Catedral de Haití se desplomaron como plastilina bajo el sol. Y de poco sirvió la espada de Dessalines o los restos del temible Toussaint-Louverture que alberga El Museo del Panteón Nacional.

Del Musée d’Art Nader, en donde se exponía pintura naïf, sólo se han podido recuperar 400 de 15 mil oleos. Y ni todo el ejército del presidente René Préval bastó para evitar la destrucción de la galería Rainbow, perteneciente a su familia.

“No quedará piedra sobre piedra que no sea destruida”.

El templo-museo de la Iglesia Episcopal Santa Trinidad, llena de murales del arte primitivo que ahora descansan a la intemperie, se hizo polvo. Al igual que el Centre d’Art.

La mano de Dios llegó hasta las altas montañas de Jacmel, en donde muchos edificios de la ciudad colonial francesa ahora son ruinas.

Toda la isla es un museo-infierno postmoderno, una gran instalación del horror de aquello que Paul Virilio llama “arte despiadado”. Y como en todo infierno hay diablos, en Haití se llaman  “ladrones de arte”.

“No quedará piedra sobre piedra que no sea destruida”.

***

RL

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